Melaka

Of course when we went back to HSBC we were told to arrange it through the bank in Perth. So much for the the ‘world’s bank’. Still we live in hope, I may get a new ATM card before we return to Aus.

We’ve also booked a hotel in Ipoh, near the Cameron Highlands, where there is a pre-Olympic hockey tournament taking place and GB are in it, thought it would make a change and Brian is debating contacting papers to see if they want some copy.

Being in the centre of town has made a big difference, we have sacrificed size for location but at least we can now explore the town and go out in the evenings. We walked to the huge malls we had seen from the bus previously that all seem to be linked together and found a lovely café, Lievito, with homemade bread and cakes, wandered through Chinatown and found the No 1 rated restaurant in Melaka just around the corner from our hotel. It is called Pak Putra, an Indian restaurant with 30+ tables set out on the pavement and more inside, the service was quick and efficient and the food was really good, no wonder it is packed from the moment it opens! Since it is just 2 minutes away I guess it is our new local, fine by me. We have also visited the night market on Jonker Walk, the highlight of the week for visitors apparently (most visitors seem to be weekenders anyway). It was lively, colourful and busy with all ages, locals as well as tourists and a variety of nationalities, the only disappointing thing was the food selection. We tried some radish cake which was OK but doubt we’ll go for it again, but nothing else caught the eye.

We have also booked up for the two weeks before Ipoh, an apartment on a golf complex that looks really nice in a town called Lumut, we’re hoping that it will be really good and we can then book up for a further stay.

When we went out on Saturday we saw some tents up on the area outside the shopping centre. A huge grassy area between malls it now had tents set up down both sides with chairs for spectators, a stage and opposite thye stage a VIP area, the whole thing at least twice the size of a football pitch. We asked what was going on and it was some kind of singing and dancing performance, we asked if we could go in and were ushered in. We were the only spectators for some very good acts, what a shame. Especially as we had asked at the tourist office what was happening and were told nothing! I should say that at the same time as the concert there was also a demonstration going on with several thousand chanting for electoral reform and a huge police presence (not required) sitting listening to the concert.

Always on the lookout to save money we found a café offering breakfast (eggs, beans, toast and coffee) for £1 each so definitely trying that tomorrow for breakfast! Then decided why not try dinner and not bad at all, dinner and beer £6, we’ll take that. After doing the obligatory stroll up and down Jonker Walk we went for a beer at a place near the hotel and as we were leaving we were accosted by a man who literally leapt into our path and said “I saw you at the demonstration – you were taking pictures”, he then proceeded to give us a rundown of the whole political system in Malaysia, why people were demonstrating and how all the good guys were Muslim! I do seem to have a face that a) people remember and b) they think they can talk to – I’ve been asked the way to places, the time, when the buses go and where to – Brian thinks it’s because I have the kind of face that looks friendly – what!

We’ve decided that the Indian place is definitely the best food and we have found a really good combination, potato nan, potato keera (spicy roast potatoes), dahl for me and tandoori chicken for Brian, if we stick to water, a big bottle between us, we get away with under £6 and it’s delicious. We are also regulars to Lievito, the bread shop where we always get freebies to try, have acoffe and a cake and take a loaf of wolfberry, sunflower seeds and nuts home for the next day’s breakfast.

We have done a lot of walking around and one of the best walks is along the river. We went for an hour along one bank, had a drink then back down the other side. They have made a great effort with the river and the whole of this stretch on both sides and in the other direction has plant pots with trees and shrubs every 4 or 5 metres, it is also lit up at night. There is the occasional strong smell of what it was like before they invested 100 million ringratts but they are really trying to make it tourist friendly.

I haven’t slept well since we came to Kota Lodge, nothing to do with the room but more to do with the nocturnal goings on. For example, last night just as we went to bed some music started, whether it was karaoke or a concert I don’t know, then at 1am – I kid you not – the bin men came and were emptying bins in the locality for the best part of an hour, then the cats and dogs started and just as I was drifting off, around 4, they start setting up the market! So, much as I have enjoyed Melaka, and I have, I am looking forward to a bit of peace and quiet.

Finally, after 8 weeks and 2 abortive attempts HSBC, ‘the world’s bank’, have managed to get a new bank card to me, we just had to sit in the branch in Melaka and wait for the DHL man to arrive for a couple of hours! While we were in the bank I stood up to take a look outside and my shorts literally fell down! I knew I had lost a couple of pounds but come on! How embarrassing, luckily I retrieved the situation without too many people noticing but might have to put that particular pair away for a bit.

As we were coming to the end of our stay in Melaka we decided to treat ourselves to a Thai massage, I went for feet and shoulders and Brian for feet and head but I suspect we had pretty much the same experience. Poor Brian, I’m not sure what he was expecting but I don’t think it was the pummelling his body received or the telling off he got afterwards because his body is so inflexible. The girls tutted and demonstrated on his legs – more pain – and told him he needs daily massage for at least a week to loosen his joints and muscles!

China town

Chinese temple

mural by the river

Melaka river

Dr Gan Boon Leong, a former Mr Atlas and Mr Universe

Melaka  river

Melaka river

Queen Victoria's monument

Brian's new friends

Potato twist

Frances Xavier Church

Chinese cemetery 

Queen Victoria's monument

Trishaws